i was tucking happily into my steamed pomfret (it’s been ages since we’ve been to an old-school teochew restaurant) when the mother leans over and twitted me for not eating pomfret ‘like a teochew’ (i.e. with practised finesse) to which my sputtered expostulation that i was only grappling with some bones and that afterall, i am actually half-teochew whereas she is only married to one!